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Mera peak climbing & Amphu Lapcha Pass

Tips For Trip

Peak Climbing ExGuide

Personal Equipment                                   

(Recommended guidelines)

Important Note: Trekking Peak Climbing in Nepal takes place at low, middle and high altitude, for short and longer duration and at distinctly different times of year- and even has the distinction between tea house trekking and tented Camping. Thus this here is intended as a check a reminder and in conjunction with it, we can give you clear advice basedon, and adapted to, the particular trekking peak climbing in which you are involved.

Trekking Peak Climbing Equipment  Can be hired ( cheaply & easily) in Kathmandu & Pokhara (many other items can of course be purchased)

Essential Personal Trekking Peak Climbing  Equipment:

We ExGuides Treks and Expeditions  would like to Suggest Correct clothing and Equipments are essential for a safe and enjoyable trekking peak climbing. Experienced trekker will often take only a selection of thsese items based on what has well worked in the past trekking peak climbing. Please find the right equipment list below for your personal trekking peak climbing use during your travel with ExGuides Treks and Expeditions.

For Peak Climbing Personal Equipment

  • Ice Axe , Crampons , 2 X Tape Slings , Harness, 2 x screw gate Karabiners, Descender/ Abseil Device , Prussic Loops & Plastic Mountaineering Boots
  • Footwear
  • Running Shoes one pair for casual comfortable support shoes wear on light during walk days
  • Light trekking boots one pair of sturdy trekking boots in which you wear a light sock under a warm heavy sock comfortably. Boots Sole should be flexible but still provide enough support for your feets. Boot should be water repellent.
  • Wool sock three pair heavyweight wool socks to be worn over the liner sock. When layering sock , check fit over feets and inside boots. Remember please to keep one fresh , dry pair of sock available at all the times.
  • Liner sock three pair of smooths thin wool , nylon of capilene to be worn next to the skin. This will reduce the incidence of blisters and hot-spot and makes the outer last longer before needing to changed. They have to fit well with your heavyweight sock.
  • Clothing during trekking peak climbing
  • Light weight long underwear two pair , tops and bottom , capilene , other synthetic or wools. No cotton please. Light weight is preferable as it is more skilled.
  • Light trekking pant light weight nylon pants designed to be use while for trekking, also Quickly dry and provide sun protection.
  • Light weight t-shirt and bandana for face masks
  • Soft shell and hard shell jacket with hood , ExGuide recommend a waterproof breathable shell material with full fron zipper and outer layer protects against wind and rain.
  • Hard shall pant with waterproof and breathable and long as you get them over your boot
  • Handwear for peakclimbing
  • Soft shell fleece gloves one pair and shell gloves with insulation one pair
  • Headwear
  • Headlamp and spare battries, good quality climber’s headlamp for use at night
  • Sun hat with good visor provides protection for the nose and eyes
  • Glass, 100% UV,IR ,high quality lenses designed for mountain use. If you wear contact lenses ExGuide recommended packing a spare pair of glasses. If you wear glasses ExGuide recommended prescription glacier glasses (gray)
  • Sleeping Bag , good quality with hood to at least -20 degree
  • Day Bagpack , day pack big enough to carry water bottles , camera , lunch and extra clothing .
  • Trekking poles , this is only Optional
  • Water treatment tablets and two water bottles with wide mount bottle 1 Litre capacity per water bottle
  • Sunscreen , SPF 30 or more than 30 SPF make sure sun screen is not older than 6 months
  • Lip screen , SPF more than 30 not older than 6 months.
  • MP3 player this only optional
  • Large duffle bag for your clothing
  • Plastic bags for lining stuff sacks and keep your gear dry.
  • Travel clothing for air travel days and time spent in kathmandu
  • Personal first AID KIT (small and simple) for during trekking peak climbing

Please this above list is only  ExGuide Treks Guideline for you. while you are required to bring everything on this list, there are numbers brands and option so all this trekking peak climbing equipment can hire and buy in Nepal. if you have any question please do not hesitate to give us call +977-01-4701324 or email us :  info@exguidestreks.com

 

Itinerary

  • Day 01: Arrive in Kathmandu (altitude:1350m) ? Our tour leader will be at the airport with our company’s logo. Once you will met the leader you will be warmly welcomed and will be transferred via chartered vehicle to the hotel in Kathmandu which will require approx. half an hour’s drive through roads and intricate streets. And after check-in at the hotel and refreshing, you will be briefed regarding your hotel, its surrounding areas and your wonderful tour itself.
    Included accommodation: Hotel in Thamel
    Mode of transport: Chartered vehicle
  • Day 02: Equipment List Ckeck or Hire in Kathmandu ? Today we will check all equipment check list and if you would like to hire in kathmandu also you can hire in kathmandu, (Down Jacket, Sleeping bag, Boots Etc.)
  • Day 03: Fly to Lukla and trek to Chu Thanga (altitude:3200m) ? Fly to Lukla (2,820m/35mins) & trek to Chu Thanga you’ll stay in Chu Thanga . An early morning thrilling flight to the gateway to the region of the legendary Sherpas. Chu Thanga also nice little place to stay. Stay overnight in Tea House
  • Day 04:Trek from Chu Thanga to Kharka Tang (altitude:4050m), walking time approx 3 hrs ? Today After break fast off to Kharka Tang today is not big day only approx. 3 hrs walking because next is you have to cross pass 2600m. Chattra –La Pass, you will arrived at Kharka Tang around Lunch time and after lunch you can do sort walk near around Kharka Tang. Stay overnight in Tea House
  • Day 05: Trek from Kharka Tang to Chhatra. walking time approx 1 hrs ? Today Heading to up to chhatra also it’s a quite big day because you have cross Chhatra-la Pass which is 4600m. after Chhatra –La pass you will walk down approx. 1 hrs to get chhatra. Stay overnight in Tea House
  • Day 06: Trek from Chhatra to Kothe(Mousum Kharka) (altitude:3000m) walking time approx 6/7 hrs ? In the morning if weather clear you can see nice valley view around mera peak side from Chhatra to Kothe is most of part is down hill and before you get kothe you have like Nepali Flat which is little up and down along river. Stay overnight in Tea House
  • Day 07:Trek from Kothey to Thangnak (altitude:4690m) walking time approx 3/4 hrs ? If Weather clear you will enjoy view of Mera peak from kothey.From Kothe to Thangnak slightly climb up to and follow the Hinku Valley and Hinku River.
  • Day 08: Test Day in Thangnak ( Part of Acclimatization day ) ? Today you will utilize the day as acclimatization where you can proceed local hike, you will spend the day as a part of Rest Day. Stay overnight in Tea House
  • Day 09: Trek from Thangnak to khare (altitude:5000m) walking time approx 2/3 hrs ? After proper acclimatization today after breakfast you will off to Khare, khare is last Tea house there is no Tea house above Khare. . Stay overnight in Tea House.
  • Day 10: In Khare(equiptment check) ? Today our Climbing Leader will check again your Equipment before you heading to High Camp and Climbing Leader will train you basic Climbing for Mera Peak. You always make sure that, please you have all Equipment with you before you off to high Camp. Also all trekking gear or, what Equipment you will need for for high camp and Summit for mera you can take Equipment and rest of Equipment you can Storage at Khare tea house becase Porters have to carry Camping Stuff and along come back from Mera Summit you  will Stay at same Tea house. Stay overnight in Tea House
  • Day 11: High camp (Over Night Stay at tent) ? After Khare you will go ahead following the difficult stroll from Khare and afterward you will ascend for an hour where you should pay more attention. Using crampons to soar up 30-35 degree ice will lead to Mera La. Turning up at Mera La after continuing 3 to 4hours of journey will make you take another 3 to 4 hours of stroll and this time you will reach to High Camp you enjoy views of northern peaks of Mt: Makalu(8,475m),Mt:  Everest (8848m) huge wall of Nuptse, Amadablamand Cho Oyu (8153m.). If the weather support you, you can sight Kanchenjunga as well. Stay overnight in tented camp
  • Day 12 : High camp to summit (altitude:6461) meter and trek to Kongma Dingma (altitude:5000m), walking time approx 8/9 hrs ? Today is final day for Summit and early morning breakfast and climbing leader will fixed you time what is breakfast and off to Mera peak summit.it is your goal make it your dream comes true with Summting Mera peak. Where you can feel it. And lifetime breathtaking views Himalayas.
  • Day 13 : Trek from Kongma Dingma to Seto pokhari via Honku valley (altitude:5035m), walking time approx 5/6 hrs ? Incredibla remote valley heading up to Seto Pokhari.all morning the great flank of chamlang dominate on our left and the spire of baruntse peak  comes  Stay overnight in tented camp
  • Day 14: Trek from Seto pokharai to Amphu Lapcha base camp (altitude:5650m), walking time approx 5/6 hrs ? Today our trekking through high altitude route from seto pokhari to amphu lapcha base camp. This is one of the remotest part of the Himalayas. We rarely meet any trekker and climbers except high season. Stay overnight in tented camp
  • Day 15 : Trek from Amphu Lapcha base camp (South) to Amphu lapcha base camp (North) (altitude:5300m), walking time approx 6/7 hrs ? In the morning starting from the south base camp to amphu lapcha. Today is as early in the morning climb with steep section on rock and ice. It’s always better to tackle the pass early in the morning when snow is stable before melt snow. We always use climbing ropes where is necessary. Last section of the climb amphu lapcha winds up through snow and other side steeps descent awaits to be try on fixed lines leading down to the hill then reach to north base camp. Stay overnight in tented camp
  • Day 16 : Trek from North base camp to Pangboche (altitude:3930m) ? Today we will trek down along the hill to arrive chukkung which is starting point for island peak climbing. After chukkung follow to dudh kosi river (milky river) and reach pangboche Stay overnight in Tea House
  • Day 17 : Trek from Pangboche to namche bazzar (altitude:3440m) ? Descending down hill with alpine forest and before arrived tangboche monastery little climb up and after monastery again down to valley cross dudh kosi river and climb up. After that you will arrive finally namche bazzar. Stay overnight in Tea House
  • Day 18: Trek from Namche to Phakding (altitude:2610m) ? Today is the second last day of our trek. After breakfast our trail descends toward Phakding through beautiful landscapes of Sherpa villages, forests, mountains and hills. We cross Monjo and we arrive in Phakding Stay overnight in Tea House
  • Day 19 :Trek from Phakding to Lukla(altitude:2840m) ? Today is the last day of our trek. From Phakding along the Dudh Koshi river to reach Lukla. In the evening we’ll have a nice dinner together with all of our team members. Stay overnight in Tea House
  • Day 20: Fly from lukla back to Kathmandu(altitude:1350m) ? After breakfast we fly back to Kathmandu, and then transfer to hotel. The rest of day can be spent at your leisure.Included accommodation:Guest house , Included meal:Breakfast
  • Day 21: Final Departure back to home ? You will be transferred to the airport according to your flight schedule. Mode of transport:Chartered vehicle.

Includes

Airport pick and drop,Welcome Dinner,Accommodation in a 3-star hotel 3 night in kathmandu B/B,Domestic Bothway flights (kathmandu-lukla and lukla- kathmandu),Climbing Guide and porter all necessary staff with experienced English Speaking climbing guide and porter to carry your luggage including their salary and food and insurance and lodging during the trekking,food and drink during trekking and mera peak climbing,Mera peak climbing permit,Mera Peak climbing Equipment,All trekking permits and Makalu national park fee,All Ground transportation as per itinerary,All goverment and local taxes

Excludes

Nepal visa fee,international airfare,Extra night Accommodation in kathmandu because of early arrival and late departure and early return from mountain due to any reason than scheduled itinerary,Travel insurance and Rescue,Personal mera peak climbing gear,Tips for Climbing Guide and Porter

Trip Notes

Nepalese Visa

All foreigners must  have  a  visa. Nepali  embassies and consulates overseas  issue  visas without any difficulties. You can also get on the spot when you arrive in Nepal, either at Kathmandu’s International Airport or at road borders:Nepaljung,Birjung ,raxaul,Sunali ,Kodari .

You will need a passport photo to get visa in Kathmandu Airport or other border places.It costs $25 for a 15 days and $ 40 for a  30 days visa even USD 100 for 90 days. If you’ll be in Nepal more than 15 days you are better off getting a 30 day visa on arrival.

It’s really a good idea to keep a number of passport photos with your passport so they are immediately handy for trekking permits,visa applications and other official documents.

Travel insurance & Emergency Funds

Emergency Fund during your travel, please make sure you have access to at least an additional USD $ 300 or equivalent , as an “Emergency” fund to be used when circumstances outside your control (ex, a natural disaster ) require a change to our planned route also and this is a rare occurrence during the trips.

Travel insurance : Travel insurance is compulsory in order to  participate on any ExGuides Treks Trips. When you travelling with us , you will not to be permitted to join the tour until confirmation of travel insurance has been sighed by ExGuides Tour Guide /Leader, who will take Note of your insurance details. Please when you selecting a travel insurance policy please keep in mind that all  your medical and accident rescue coverage and that we suggest a minimum coverage of USD $ 200,000 for repatriation and emergency ( this is only if you do trekking , peak climbing and expeditions, but if you do  ExGuide tours we require travel insurance only ) we strongly rcommend that the policy also covers personal liability , cancellation , curtailment and loss of your luggage and personal effects.

If you have credit card insurance we require proof of purchase of the your trip (receipt of credit card statement) with credit card in your Name. please do contact your bank for details of their participating insurer the level of  coverage and emergency contact telephone Number.

Exchange money

Exchange money : the official currency of Nepal is Nepali Rupees (NPR). If would like take a ATMs can only be found in kathmandu specially in thamel many ATMs place, pokhara  and bhaktpur. the money exchange facilities are available in kathmandu (thamel , patan mostly tourist place) pokhara (around lake side) , bhaktapur and chitwan( only ourside the park). The before nepal’s government banned the import and export and use of 500 and 1000 indina Ruppe Note in Nepal but now Nepal government allow indian 500 and 1000 import and export. While traveller’s cheques have security advantages exchanging them can be a long process  and commission can be high (up to 10%) and they can be difficult to change in rural areas On weekends and public holidays. If you choose to bring traveller’s cheques please make sure they are a major brand and major currency.

Spending money: all traveller are different and therefore spending money requirements will vary. Some one travellers may drinks more than others while other travellers like to purchase more souvenirs than participating in optional activities and tipping.

Health and physical condition

Physical condition : trekking has been since long established in Nepal and providing beautiful views in a natural landscape. When you trekking , can be difficult in parts with a lot of uphill and downhill even climbing. But within the capabilities of any healthy person with an established level of walking and fitness. Often stubbornness helps. Walking at your own pace-slow and steady is the way to go being fit or unfit is not the main control here , it is how you deal with mountain altitude. Please never do not RUSH! Go slowly –plod on at a steady pace , pause , sadnting to resting also do not sit too aften it’s harder to get going again and again. Even please don’t care about whether others are ahead ! the walking path is clear , your Guides keep track of where you are . there is plently of times so walk at your pace regardless of how far behind you may think you are. Always remember the sun is intense wear sunscreen and sunglasses it is colder than you think , especially in the wind if you take off layers whilst during walking make sure to put them on again as soon as you stop or are in the shade so , don’t wait to get cold.

If you have any doubts of you are not sure if a trekking is suitable for you please do not hesitate to ask us for advice before you take your final trips booking decision.

Health and safety (Acute mountain sickness AMS)

Acute mountain sickness (AMS) : Though All ExGuides Treks itineraries are designed to allow adepuate enough acclimatization during your trekking in Himalayas , you are likey to feel the effect of altitude sickness (AMS) and oxygen deprivation whlist on the trekking. If left untreated AMS can be life-threatening. We would expect the majority or people to notice the effect of being at high altltude and while most will only feel discomfort , it is not uncommon for small number of people to need extra care  which will we provided by our Guides and local staff. All our ExGuides trips that spend time at high altitude follow our standered altitude safety measures.

A number of medical conditions or medications are can also reduce your body’s ability to acclimatize and thus will affect your performance at high altitude himalayas and make you more susceptible to AMS. If you are so worried about any pre-existing condition (e.g heart problem) or unsure of your physical ability , you have to seek medical advice  prior to booking. You may also wish to discuss medication such as diamox that may help aid acclimatization during your trekking. Please Note that while we  try to assist all our valueable clients in achieving their Goal even Dream. But  there are maybe times your Guides makes the decision to either delay or stop your ascent based on your medical conditions and AMS symptoms on trekking health and safety is most important. All our trips are Running and leading by an experienced , (Expert of tours , trekking and climbing ) English Speaking Local Guides and assistants who will help with the daily logistics.

How to prevent AMS

It’s always good to know that best way to prevent AMS is to ascend gradually . above an altitude of 3,000 meter (10,000 ft) you should not ascend more than 500 meter  in a day. If due to the itinerary this not possible a rest day to acclimatize recommended by ExGuide Treks.keep in mind please that different people will acclimatize at different rates. Acclimatization of often accompanied by fluid loss , so you always need to lots drinks of fluid to remain properly hydrated (at least 3-4 quarts per day. Also urine output should be copious and clear like water. Please take it easy , don’t  over –exert yourself when you first get up to altitude in Himalayas. Light activity during day is better than sleeping because respiration decrease during sleep, exacerbating the symptoms. Always avoid tobacco and alcohol and other depressant drugs including  tranquilizer and sleeping pills . there are depressants futher decrease the respiratory drive during sleeping resulting in a worsening of the symptoms. Please eat well foods and eat a high carbohydrate diet ( more than 70% of your calories from carbohydrates) when you while at altitude. If begin to show symptoms of moderate altitude illness , please do not go higher until symtoms decrease of symptoms are increase , you should go down , down, down!

Preventive Medication

Diamox : Diamox allow you to breathe faster so that you metabolize more oxygen , thereby minimizing the symptoms casue by poor oxygenation. This Diamox is especially helpful to start at night when respiratory drive is decrease. Since takes while for Diamox to have an effect. It’s a advisable to start taking it 24 hrs before you go to altitude and continue for at least five days higher altitude, and this is recommendation of the Himalayan rescue association medical clinic is 125 mg. twice a day one in the morning and one at night.diamox started dose  is 250 mg  , when you take Diamox you may get possible side effects include tingling of the lips and finger tips , blurring of vision and alteration of taste. Please never , and never try to take more than 250 mg Diamox in once. After taking Diamox please drink lots and lots water it does help a lot.

First aid kit

We would like to basic list to cover the more common ailment that affect trekkers. climbing group , expeditions and all trekkers going to isolated areas will need a more  comprehensive kit.

  • Plaster /band-aids
  • Lodine or water filter (optional)
  • Moleskin/second skin for blister
  • Antiseptic ointment for cuts
  • Anti-bacterial throat lozenges (with antiseptis)
  • Aspirin
  • Oral rehydration salts
  • Antibiotic for guardia of similar microbe
  • Diamox 250 mg(for altitude sickness)
  • Sterile syringe set (anti-AIDS precaution)
  • Gel and cleaner

(For more AMS information please visit our site at health and safety)

General health Advice : it is always good to consult with your doctor for up to date medical travel information well before departure for your trip. When you selecting you trip please carefully read the itinerary ans assess your ability to handle with our style of travel.

Climate /weather

If you are looking for when to trekking in Nepal or which month is best ? please visit our website at “when to trekking in Nepal”

Food and accommodation        

Eating is a big part of traveling. When travelling with ExGuides you experience the local food . while arrival ,we always provide you WELCOME DINNER. While trekking we are usually satying in  so call tea house. A tea houses are the combination of guest houses , restaurant and social hang out. Private rooms (twin basis) are available in most tea houses , except for high altitudes onces where it will be just dormitories. The tea houses are fairly basic. The rooms are spare with twin beds and very little additional furniture. Blankets are generally provided from tea houses. Most bathrooms are shared and toilets can be either squat type or the western version. It depend on trekking region and trekking place.most of tea houses have running water facility and many of them have hot water available for bathing at additional cost. Solar heaters depend on the weather. There is a large dining room-cum-lounge , warmed by the Bukhara stove  and tea house normally no electric lighting in the rooms unless the village has hydroelectric power. Most tea houses got solar lighting in dining.

Tea houses now also have electricity for charging small appliances –mobile phone and cameras and there maybe a small charge amount for this.

During a tea houses trekking peak climb you will usually have breakfast and dinner in the tea houses where you stayed and lunch will be eaten at one of the trail side resturants. Every tea houses serves the traditional nepali meals Dal Bhat (rice and lentils) as well as a varity of different food item such as rice , vegetable , noodles , patatos and soup.also different varity food items such as a pizza , pasta and French fries. For soft drink, snacksand beer are available in most of the tea houdes and trails side resturants. And of course always milk tea is served everywhere in tea houses trekking. for peak climb Tents all equipment (not including your personal gears) we provide as per as details itinerary.

Tipping

Tipping at the end of your trip : if you are happy with the services provided a tip- though not compulsory –is appropritate. While it may not be customary to you. it is of great significance to the people who will take care of you during your trips and inspires excellent service and is an entrenched feature of the tourism industry across many destination. We recommend that tips are given to the intended recipient by a member of your group , rather than collected ans passed on by group leader. We suggest following amount are based on local considerations and feedback from our past traveller, hotel porter :NPR 50-100 is adequate for porters that assist you with bags to your room. Restaurant : please check the bill if there’s an addition of 10% service charge , no requirement ofr tipping , otherwise 5-10% of the total bill amount is appropriate.

Your Trip leader/ Guide: throughout your trip you may at times have a local Guide in addition to your leader. We suggest USD 2-3 per person , per day for local Guide(including city tour Guide , jungle Guide , rafting Guide , assistant trekking Guide and your Trip leader/ Guide). ( 4-6 clients = 1 assistance Guide and 1 climbing Guide , 7-10 clients = 2 assistance Guide and 1 climbing Guide 10-12 clients= 3 assistance Guide and 1 Climbing Guide )

Porter : throughout your trip you may at times have a porter in addition to your leader. We suggest USD $ 2 per person perday. ( normally two client luggage one porter will carry. ) but make sure that your trip leader /Guide should get more tips than porter. If you need any advice please you can always free to ask your trip leader /Guide. ( for climbing porter we Use each person clients One porter so , one client= one porter , 12 clients =12 porters)

Some general rules

Respect Culture : ExGuide philosophy of travel is one of respect toward everyone we encounter , and in particul our local people who make the world special place it is.

Disclaimer

All our trips are subject to change due to weather conditions or any other factors outside of ExGuides’s control. While we operate successful trips in this region throughout the years. Something changes may occur in our itineraries due to inclement weather and common seasonal changes to timetables and transportation route. Ths is can be happen with little noice so please be prepared for more modification to the route. The order and timing of included activities in each location may also vary from timing to timing.